“What if your mind followed your heart?”
The title of a book I received from colleagues perfectly reflects a decision I made months ago: to step away for a while and spend three months in Nepal. A long-held wish to better understand the culture, society, and language—one that still feels a little unreal now that I’m here.

People often ask me: Why Nepal? That’s hard to explain. Since our first trekking and climbing adventure in 1994, Nepal has stayed with me. Perhaps it’s knowing you’ll always be an outsider, especially as a Westerner—but traveling alone, I sense this experience will be different. On my own, I meet people more easily, explore freely, and wander the city with curiosity. Professionally, I’ve had the pleasure of connecting with Swosti Kayastha from the Nepal Art Council and visiting the Patan Museum. A brief but inspiring behind-the-scenes glimpse—one I hope to continue in April.

During my first week, I jotted down a few observations and moments of wonder I’d like to share:

• The streets are noticeably cleaner than they were years ago. You hardly see any litter. Is there now an organized waste collection system, or is the trash simply swept out of sight? I haven’t seen evidence of the former yet—waste still appears along undeveloped land and in the river.
• Schoolchildren still wear uniforms, but these days they seem to be colorful tracksuits rather than the traditional “English-style” uniforms. I’m not sure if this is the case everywhere, or when this change took place.
• Kathmandu itself is a maze of narrow alleys and hidden courtyards, invisible from the main roads and a joy to explore. During one of these wanderings, I stumbled upon Itum Bahal: a small monastery complex with a temple, museum, and social spaces. By chance, a marriage ceremony called Ehi was taking place. A group of girls, around five to seven years old, were ritually married to a god—a Newari tradition and the first step before a woman may later marry a man. It made me think of First Communion in the Catholic Church, though I’m not sure that comparison truly fits.
• The mural “Never Forget” shows the portraits of Nepalis who lost their lives during last September’s uprising. The protests were driven by anger over corruption and largely fueled through social media. When access to social platforms was cut, tensions escalated, leading to a harsh police response. Whether this will bring real change anytime soon remains uncertain.

I’m now in Pokhara and plan to write something every week. Follow the blog at artekino.nl/blog. And if you have thoughts or answers to my questions, feel free to share on my instagram account: angela_artekino or on my linkedIn page: https://www.linkedin.com/in/artekino/